Mechastrolines

Top 10 tips for Mountaineering
• Training
Mountaineering is a pursuit that should never be undertaken without a good understanding of the many different aspects involved, ranging from map reading and navigation skills to rope work and understanding mountain weather. You should definitely consider booking up with a reputable organisation offering expert advice such as at Plas-y-Brenin (The National Mountain Centre) or Jagged Globe, who offer excellent introductory mountaineering courses right through to guided expeditions to summit the worlds 8,000m peaks.

• Preparation and planning
Take time to plan and prepare for your ascent. This will be time well spent and the chances of your having a successful and enjoyable ascent will be far higher if you have prepared well. Take time to plan your route and prepare your kit regardless of whether you’re a going for a short climb or a two month expedition, some careful planning can make all the difference. As well as careful planning, always check your kit before you leave… it is no good being out on the mountain only to find you left your ice-axe in the garden shed!

• Footwear
Make sure you invest in a good pair of rugged mountaineering boots. For summer mountaineering you can get away with a stiff pair of hill walking boots, but for winter mountaineering a crampon rated boot will be needed (see the realbuzz.com mountaineering gear guide). Visit a reputable outdoor retailer who will offer good advice on the best mountaineering boot to suit your needs.

• Food
Make sure to carry plenty of food (and water) on any mountaineering trip. Food needs to be high in energy and lightweight. Many high-energy bars and pre-packaged meals are now available. Food can make or break longer expeditions so make sure the food you carry is something tasty and enjoyable too! It is essential on any mountaineering trip to carry emergency rations in case you are on the mountain for longer than anticipated.

• Weather
Before embarking on any mountaineering trip make sure you get a local weather forecast. You can always postpone a summit attempt for another day, with more favourable weather conditions. However, once you are on a mountaineering route you will often be committed with little options for retreat so checking the weather in advance is a must!

• Emergency shelter
Too many completely avoidable accidents and injuries occur in mountaineering because people simply underestimate the awesome forces of mountain weather. Always carry an emergency shelter, they are small and lightweight but can be life savers, protecting you from the elements should the weather suddenly turn. There are many shelters available from two-person to large group shelters. Some of the best available are Terra Novas Bothy Bags.

• Nobody wants to think that an accident will ever happen to them but it would be foolhardy to think that this will always be the case. Take some time to prepare for, and practice actions on different types of emergencies. High levels of training mean you will react without having to think, which is beneficial since decision-making abilities are severely impaired in stressful conditions.
In an emergency:
• Don’t rush and remain calm. Otherwise a minor mishap could escalate into a major incident.
• Quickly assess the casualty’s condition.
• Determine if they can be treated and evacuated by the party or if external assistance is required.
• Call for external assistance if it is needed using your mobile. If you have no network signal then someone needs to leave to get help.
• Never leave a casualty unattended unless it is completely unavoidable i.e. if climbing as a pair. At least two fit and reliable members of the party should be sent. Write down the grid-reference and a description of the location as well as the casualty’s injuries to take to the rescue services. (A GPS receiver can prove invaluable in determining your exact location to give to rescue teams).
• Move the casualty to shelter and keep them warm, hydrated and reassured. However, NEVER move a casualty if you suspect any spinal injuries.
• Never move far from your ascent route as this is where mountain rescue teams will focus their search. If you need to find shelter then leave a sign indicating your direction to the rescue team.

• Emergency communications
Always take your mobile phone with you (sealed in a waterproof bag) when you are mountaineering. In the event of an emergency it will save valuable time if you are able to contact the emergency services immediately. Be aware that mobile network signal strength can be non-existent in some remote areas. For such expeditions radios are essential as they enable party members to communicate when out of site of each other on the mountain, but also to radio for assistance if it is needed.

• Be safe
Mountaineering is an enjoyable pastime but there are inevitable dangers involved. The risk of accident or injury will be severely reduced if you start off by planning short, easy ascents and then gradually increase your route severity as your experience and confidence grow. If you push too hard too soon, this is how accidents inevitably happen, putting yourself, rescue teams and other climbers all at risk. Plan according to your ability and always to the ability of the weakest member in a group.

• First aid
It is well worth taking the time to invest in some basic first aid training as this is useful knowledge to have (not only for mountaineering but for every day occurrences). Courses are very affordable, easy to learn and short in duration, but can prove invaluable out on the hill or at any other time. Always carry a personal first fid kit (mountain leaders will always carry a more comprehensive kit).
Types of mountaineeringThere are now three general types of mountaineering
Different styles or methods of mountaineering have evolved over the years. The main impetus behind this evolution in styles of climbing has been the massive advances in mountaineering equipment.
The advent of the likes of Gore-tex, tough lightweight plastics, carbon fibre, extremely strong but lightweight metal alloys, pre-packaged high-energy foods, and improved stoves and tents, all mean that the large and slow expedition-style ascents of yesteryear are now giving way to fast lightweight ascents. Routes that once took days to ascend using old equipment and climbing methods are now being ascended in a matter of hours!
Three general ‘types’ of mountaineering now exist:
Alpinism
• Alpinism is a style or method of climbing, originally developed by alpine guides but now used extensively to ascend ‘low level’ routes (below 5,000m in altitude).
• The majority of mountaineering routes around the world, including the UK, are classed as low-level mountaineering (sub 5,000m).
• Climbing generations of yesteryear carried a lot of equipment and many accidents were borne from the sheer weight of kit being carried and the slow progress of ascent.
• The essence behind alpine-style climbing is to move quickly by carrying minimal climbing protective equipment and bivouac equipment, keeping weight to a minimum and adopting the attitude that ‘fast is safe’.
• Alpinism requires all members of the party to be able to move over difficult terrain with speed and competence.
High altitude mountaineering
• Mountaineering above 5,000m is affected by altitude, weather, access and sustained climbing on snow and ice.
• High altitude mountaineering requires a mixture of determination, patience, fearlessness, caution, careful planning but the ability to make snap decisions.
• Traditionally high altitude mountaineering has made the use of expedition or 'siege' style tactics to carry vast amounts of bivouac equipment and food, and establish camps at different altitudes on the climb, necessary to allow party members to acclimatise to the changes in altitude.
• Alpine-style climbing is now creeping into the world of high altitude mountaineering with many day-long routes now being ascended in just hours. But, fast and lightweight ascents cannot be undertaken by anyone as most people succumb to rapid gains in altitude. Also lightweight ascents run high risks if anything should go wrong.
Ultra light-weight mountaineering
• Reserved for the more intrepid mountaineers, where climbers ascend high altitude peaks, using modern light-weight equipment in very short times.

The mountaineering gear guide A introduction to the kit
Much of the clothing equipment needed for mountaineering has already been described in the realbuzz.com section on [hill walking]. Some additional points to bear in mind for mountaineering apparel is to make sure that you have freedom of movement for swinging your arms, legs and ice-axes around!
nsure jackets and trousers have adequate reinforcement on areas that will take constant abuse ie: shoulders, elbows, knees and seat. Waterproof over-trousers should always have a full length zip to allow easy donning over boots and crampons. Finally, ensure that a jacket has chest pockets that you can still access when wearing a climbing harness.

Equipment needed for mountaineering will include the following:
Helmet
Essential to protect the head from rock and ice falls.
Rope
The primary function of a rope is to hold a fall, should one occur, whilst climbing or glacier crossing. A rope can also be used for direct support when abseiling or when ascending a fixed rope.
Prusik loops
Prusik loops are short lengths of climbing cord tied into small loops. They need to be carried on all mountaineering routes as they are essential to ascend a fixed rope in the event of a fall as well as providing security when abseiling.
Harness
A harness is worn to provide a quick safe and comfortable means of attachment to a rope for sustained periods of climbing. The harness also enables large amounts of protective climbing equipment to be carried on gear loops around the waist band.
Piton
A metal spike with an eye at one end driven into ice or a rock crevice and used for securing a rope when climbing.
Karibiner
An oval or D-shaped metal ring with a spring clip that allows it to be attached to ropes, pitons, and other items of mountaineering equipment.
Mountaineering boots
For anything other than summer mountaineering a rugged pair of mountaineering boots is essential. Mountaineering boots have semi-rigid or rigid soles designed to accept crampons for snow and ice work. The type of boot (and crampon) you select will depend on the type of mountaineering routes you will be doing. Always seek expert advice from a reputable mountain boot stockist, such as any Cotswold Outdoor store.
Crampons
Semi-rigid crampons allow walking over snow and ice and ascent of gentle slopes and are ideal for Scottish winter and alpine style ascents. Fully rigid crampons are ideal for technical routes as well as climbing on sustained steep ice routes by the use of ‘front points.’ As with boots, seek expert advice from a reputable outdoor equipment retailer.
Protective climbing equipment
Mountaineering requires the use of protective equipment to provide security to each member of the party. To the novice mountaineer the array of equipment can be bewildering but each has its own specific function. There are different types of equipment for summer and winter routes including… karabiners, belay device, slings, nuts, hexes, friends, quick-draws, nut-key, pitons, ice-screws, dead-man, pulleys and mechanical ascenders.
Ice axe
An ice axe is essential for winter or alpine mountaineering routes, providing stability for safe progress across snow and ice covered terrain. For most general mountaineering routes an axe with a shaft between 60 and 70cm will be ideal, but your final choice will depend on your height and intended routes.
Other mountaineering equipment that is not essential but should be considered:
GPS receiver
Navigating and determining your exact position in mountainous terrain can be extremely difficult especially when compounded by the effects of snow which hides footpaths and many useful landmarks. Personally I am very a strong advocate for the ability of any mountaineer to be able to navigate on their own, but GPS receivers do have their uses, especially in an emergency situation (Consider the highly affordable but feature packed i-Finder GPS receivers by Lowrance)
Altimeter and barometer
An altimeter can be a very useful tool to aid navigation on the mountain, in determining your exact altitude you can determine exactly where you are on the mountain. A barometer allows you to keep an eye on changes in atmospheric pressure giving an early warning of approaching bad weather allowing you to either get off the mountain or to seek shelter.
Many GPS receivers have built in altimeters and barometers or you could consider an ADC (Atmospheric Data Centre) by outdoor specialists Silva.
Distress beacon
Distress beacons are small, lightweight and inexpensive but can prove invaluable to help steer rescue parties towards your position in low light and at night by emitting a powerful flashing light signal.

An introduction to mountaineering
Mountaineering in a nutshell for potential beginners
What exactly is mountaineering?
Technically anybody could walk to the top of a mountain but this would not make them a mountaineer. Mountaineering can best be described as the ascent of any hill or mountain where the gradient and severity of the terrain requires some form of climbing and the sustained use of technical equipment.
In summer this equipment can include a helmet, rope, harness, karabiner and protective climbing equipment, and in winter will include the addition of crampons, ice axe and protective ice-climbing equipment.
Mountaineering will inevitably involve periods of hill walking but what distinguishes these two activities is whether you need to use technical equipment in order to reach your objective… the summit!
How can you benefit from mountaineering?
There are numerous benefits to mountaineering. The most obvious benefits are improving your both your physical fitness and cardiovascular fitness levels as well as reducing body fat through aerobic exercise. Some other less obvious or ‘less tangible’ benefits include greatly improving your own personal confidence and team working skills, which you will use in your work and personal life without even realising it!
Why would anyone want to do it?
Ask the majority of mountaineers why they pursue the sport and many would struggle to come up with a logical answer as to why they devote many hours, days and sometimes months to… lets be blunt… climbing a lump of rock! But mountains have always held a considerable fascination to people for many different reasons.
Mountains present a challenge to the adventurous, a release to the mystic and an arena for the sportsman. Different people are drawn to different activities for many reasons so what would draw someone to go mountaineering? Mountaineering is as much a spiritual pursuit as it is a physical one. Often you will experience personal joy and sadness, triumph and defeat but always developing that spirit to surmount the insurmountable. Few people wake up one day deciding to try mountaineering… more often it is a natural progression for either a hill walker or a rock climber to pursue their enjoyment further.
How much time does it take?
In the UK a mountaineering route could be as short as a few hours of climbing to reach a summit to then descend by walking down. This could be extended to day-long or multi-day ascents. At the other extreme, mountaineering routes can literally take months. But remember, the quality of a climb is not just determined by the altitude climbed, but by a number of other factors.
Many mountaineers become obsessed with ‘bagging’ some of the world’s 8,000m peaks (all located in the Himalaya). Some equally challenging but more enjoyable routes are to be found on many other peaks around the world. The sheer remoteness of some of the world’s mountain peaks means that no transportation can get you easily to your route meaning the only way there is weeks of trekking.
Once on a mountain, ascent at altitude means that time must also be taken to let the body adjust and acclimatise to working in a thinner atmosphere with less oxygen.
(Any ascent over 5,000m can be considered high enough to cause altitude related problems).
What does it feel like?
Mountaineering often involves a whole spectrum of emotions and sometimes they can all collide at once! Words cannot describe the sense of freedom you get when you are ascending a mountain. It is truly a spiritual experience leaving you feeling really alive! You will find out a lot about yourself, some inner strengths you never even knew were there as well as developing new strengths.
On any ascent there will be good times and bad times too, that’s what makes the sport so personally challenging and character building. Joy and sadness, triumph and defeat can all be experienced within moments of each other. I can assure you there have been many times when I have asked myself ‘Why am I doing this?’ But those moments pass to be replaced by great feelings of achievement that will stay with you forever…
Who can do it?
There are no real age barriers to entering into the world of mountaineering (anyone under 16 should clearly be supervised by a qualified adult). The only real barrier to mountaineering is the need for a moderate level of physical fitness but even this will develop as you progress in the sport and your routes become harder and more sustained.
Do you have to go on a course?
Mountaineering is a pursuit that should never be undertaken without a good understanding of the many different aspects involved, ranging from map reading and navigation skills to rope work and understanding mountain weather. Friends often teach each other, passing their knowledge on, but the time and money invested in a course is more than well spent. Courses are very reasonably priced and you should definitely consider booking up with a reputable organisation offering expert advice such as at Plas-y-Brenin (The National Mountain Centre) or Jagged Globe, who offer excellent introductory mountaineering courses, right through to guided expeditions to summit the worlds 8,000m peaks